SWEDISH EARLY 1900S BLACK THREE PIECE BESPOKE FROCK COAT SET. SIZE CA EU 48-50 (US/UK 38-40)

DESCRIPTION

This three-piece ensemble unfortunately bears no labels—Swedish garments from this period rarely do. Even so, a careful examination allows us to draw certain conclusions. It was most likely made in Sweden during the early decades of the 20th century. It is almost certainly bespoke, having been tailored for a specific individual, not least judging by its sizing. Please see the "SIZE" section for further details. The ensemble is made from a densely woven black wool cloth, entirely typical of the period.

The coat is a frock coat, long in length with a straight-cut skirt. It is double-breasted and fastens with three cloth-covered buttons. Each lapel features a buttonhole, and the cuffs are finished with two matching cloth-covered buttons. Turning the coat around, one finds two buttons at the waist. The way the back has been cut and shaped to create a well-defined waist is a decorative feature in itself, beautifully demonstrating the tailor's craftsmanship. The coat has a deep centre vent extending from the waist. The interior is fully lined and fitted with a single inside pocket on the right-hand side.

The waistcoat is very much of its period, with a shawl collar and a relatively low fastening. It fastens with four cloth-covered buttons and has a breast pocket on the left-hand side. The lower row consists of one pocket on each side. The front is cut relatively straight across the bottom. At the back is an adjustment buckle for altering the fit at the waist. The waistcoat is lined with a striped cotton fabric.

The trousers have a flat front with no pleats and feature vertical side pockets. They have braces buttons fitted to the outside of the waistband and a button fly. At the rear is a single pocket on the right-hand side, together with a buckle for adjusting the waist. The trousers also feature a fishtail waistband, meaning that the rear waistband is split where the braces buttons are attached. On closer inspection, it is also evident that the waist has been let out at some point. This alteration has been very neatly carried out using the original cloth and is barely noticeable, although it can naturally be identified by the position of the seams.

Overall, the condition is very good, particularly considering the garment's age—it is well over 100 years old. There are, however, a few minor points worth mentioning. There are a number of stains, most of them on the inside, although a couple are visible externally. It is possible that these could be removed with further cleaning, but we cannot guarantee this. Otherwise, the imperfections consist mainly of staining to the linings of both the frock coat and the waistcoat. The trousers also show a slight sheen to the seat from wear. Please examine the photographs carefully and form your own assessment of the condition.

SIZE

As mentioned above, this is a bespoke ensemble, meaning that the three pieces do not correspond precisely to a single modern size. Judging by the chest measurement, the frock coat corresponds approximately to a modern EU 48 (UK/US 38). The waistcoat is slightly larger, corresponding approximately to an EU 50 (UK/US 40). As noted above, the trousers have been let out at the waist, making them considerably larger than the other two pieces if judged solely by the waist measurement. In their current state, they correspond approximately to a modern EU 56 (UK/US 46). If the alteration were reversed and the added wedge removed, they would most likely correspond closely to the size of the frock coat and waistcoat. It should also be borne in mind that the rear waist adjuster allows the trousers to be tightened, enabling the waist measurement to be brought more closely into line with the other two pieces.

Please scroll down for the exact measurements and seam allowances.

JACKET

Chest (A) : 53 cm

Waist (B) : 50 cm 

Sleeves (C) : 63 cm

Shoulders (D) : 42 cm

Total length (E) : 100 cm (96 cm measured from neck seam)

 WAISTCOAT

Chest (A) : 51 cm

Waist (B) : 47 cm (with adjusters fully open)

Shoulders (C) : 36 cm

Total length (D) : 57 cm

TROUSERS

Waist (A) : 51 cm (with adjusters fully open) 

Length (B) : 104 cm 

Inseam (C) : 73 cm 

Cuff width (D) : 22 cm

Seam allowance trousers waist: 3,5 cm 

Seam allowance trousers length: 1 cm