SWEDISH 1930S/1940S BLACK TWO PIECE BESPOKE SUIT. SIZE CA EU 50 SHORT (US/UK 40 SHORT)

DESCRIPTION

To be honest, this suit is something of a mystery. It is unmistakably bespoke, yet there is no tailor's label to reveal either its origin or the date it was made. Most evidence suggests that it was tailored in Sweden, probably during the 1930s or 1940s. It is, however, possible that it was made somewhat later to the original owner's rather traditional specifications. Overall, the suit incorporates a number of unusual details that were almost certainly requested by the client. We will go through these features one by one below. It is tailored from a black wool cloth with a subtle twill weave.

The jacket is single-breasted and fastens with a link button. Here we find the first unusual feature. Whilst link buttons were occasionally used on formal evening wear, they are highly unusual on an ordinary dark lounge suit. The jacket has low-set front pockets with generous flaps and a breast pocket. The left lapel has a false buttonhole rather than a functional one, something rarely seen on older Swedish jackets. The back is plain and closed, without vents. Internally, the jacket is fully lined and has one inside pocket on each side, both secured with buttons. The bespoke construction is immediately apparent on the inside, with the lining entirely sewn by hand.

The trousers have double forward pleats, vertical welted front pockets and a button fly. The waistband features another unusual detail. The waistband extension is exceptionally long and even passes through the first belt loop before fastening. Turning the trousers over, we find side adjusters, a feature that is very uncommon on Swedish suits of this period. There is also a rear pocket on the right-hand side with a flap and button fastening. Looking inside the trousers reveals yet another distinctive detail: they are half-lined at the front, with the lining extending down to the middle of the lower leg.

The condition of the suit is, for all practical purposes, excellent. We have found no flaws worthy of mention. Please study the photographs carefully and form your own opinion of the condition.

SIZE

The sizing further confirms that this is a bespoke garment rather than one made to a standard ready-to-wear size. We believe it would fit someone who normally wears approximately an EU 50 Short (US/UK 40 Short). The jacket corresponds to an EU 50 in the chest, while the trousers are slightly smaller in the waist. However, there is sufficient inlay to let the waist out so that the trousers can be altered to correspond closely with the jacket. In their current state, the trousers are too small in the waist for someone who would normally wear an EU 50 (US/UK40). Please scroll down for exact measurements and available seam allowances.

MEASUREMENTS

JACKET

Chest (A) : 56 cm

Waist (B) : 53 cm 

Sleeves (C) : 56 cm

Shoulders (D) : 47 cm

Total length (E) : 73 cm (70 cm measured from neck seam)

TROUSERS

Waist (A) : 40 cm

Length (B) : 95 cm 

Inseam (C) : 72 cm 

Cuff width (D) : 21 cm 

Seam allowance trousers waist: 6cm 

Seam allowance trousers length: 2 cm