A. MARCHESAN & SILTBERG BEVELLED-EDGE COROZO BUTTON FOR BRACES. SIZE 17 MM / 27 Ligne

Corozo, also known as vegetable ivory, is a natural material obtained from the seeds of several species of palm native to tropical regions of South America. The seeds are exceptionally hard and dense, with a fine, ivory-like structure that makes them particularly well suited to the manufacture of buttons.

Before the widespread use of modern plastics, natural materials were commonly used for buttons, including horn, bone, mother-of-pearl and corozo. Corozo became especially valued because it could be cut, shaped and polished much like ivory, while offering a practical and renewable alternative. Its natural density gives buttons good resistance to everyday wear, while its fine grain produces a distinctive surface with a subtle, organic texture. One of the characteristic qualities of corozo is that no two buttons are quite identical. Variations in colour, grain and texture are part of the natural material rather than imperfections. With time and use, the surface can develop a gentle patina, making corozo particularly well suited to traditional and classically made garments.

In Sweden, corozo was commonly known as stennöt - literally “stone nut” – a name referring to the remarkable hardness of the material. Stennöt buttons were widely used for suits and other better-quality garments, particularly during the first half of the twentieth century. Older Swedish suits and coats can therefore often be found with stennöt buttons, either in their natural warm brown and cream tones or dyed in darker colours.

The use of corozo today continues this tradition. Unlike plastic buttons, which are manufactured to achieve a uniform appearance, corozo retains the natural character of the material from which it is made. Its subtle variation and tactile surface complement the texture of traditional suitings, making it particularly suitable for classic men's tailoring. For these reasons, corozo remains an excellent choice for buttons on traditionally made coats, trousers, jackets and waistcoats: durable enough for regular use, refined in appearance and closely connected with the long history of natural button materials.

The size of a button is generally determined by its diameter, and different sizes have traditionally been used for different parts of a garment. The proportions of the button should complement the garment itself, as well as the weight and character of the cloth.

There is no single universal rule for button sizes, and practices have varied between countries, periods and manufacturers. However, the following sizes are commonly encountered in classic men's tailoring:

• 10–12 mm – Small buttons, often used for shirt cuffs, spats and other discreet applications.
• 14–15 mm – Commonly used for trousers, including waistband buttons and button fly .
• 16–18 mm – A versatile size often found on waistcoats, lightweight jackets and smaller front buttons.
• 20–23 mm – Typical for many suit jackets, sports jackets and heavier outer garments.
• 24–26 mm – Larger jacket buttons, often used on overcoats, heavier country clothing and garments where a more substantial button is appropriate.
• 28 mm and above – Generally reserved for larger outerwear, coats and other garments requiring a particularly substantial button.

These are only general guidelines. The correct size depends not only on the garment but also on the style of the button, its thickness and colour. A relatively thin button can appear smaller than a thick button of the same diameter, while a strongly domed or raised button may appear larger.

Button size is normally measured across the diameter of the button, from one edge to the opposite edge, passing through the centre. For example, a button measuring approximately 17 mm across is described as a 17 mm button.

Button sizes are also traditionally expressed in ligne, abbreviated "L". Ligne is an old French unit of measurement that became widely established in the button trade and remains in use by button manufacturers.

One ligne is equal to approximately 0.625 mm. To convert ligne to millimetres:

ligne × 0.625 = diameter in mm

Conversely:

diameter in mm ÷ 0.625 = size in ligne

The term ligne is particularly useful when discussing traditional buttons because it provides a standardised way of describing button size independent of the material or manufacturer.