DESCRIPTION
This is a superb smoking jacket of Swedish origin, originally sold by PUB (Paul U. Bergström) in Stockholm during the 1930s or 1940s. At the time, PUB was one of Stockholm's leading department stores for high-quality gentlemen's clothing and also operated a first-class bespoke tailoring department. This smoking jacket, however, was almost certainly ready-to-wear rather than bespoke.
It is made from a dark navy cloth which appears plain from a distance, but reveals a tasteful and subtly woven herringbone pattern upon closer inspection. The quilted shawl collar and turn-back cuffs are finished in a rich golden tone. The jacket is double-breasted with three rows of buttons and features slanted front pockets, elegantly framed by decorative braiding in matching colours. The breast pocket is similarly adorned with decorative braid and, notably, is also cut at an angle—a refined detail more commonly found on even earlier garments.
At the waist is a twisted belt finished with tassels, naturally continuing the navy-and-gold colour scheme. The interior is unlined.
As for the condition, there are several points worth mentioning, and it is not without flaws. There are a number of minor areas of wear. The most noticeable are the discolouration marks on the shawl collar. It is possible that these could be reduced or removed with further specialist cleaning, but we cannot guarantee this. There is also some wear to one of the cuffs.
Ultimately, this is a unique garment approaching 100 years of age, and its condition should be considered with that in mind. It shows honest signs of use—or, if you prefer, a pleasing patina—but remains perfectly wearable. It deserves to continue its life with a new owner who appreciates both its craftsmanship and its history. Please examine the photographs carefully and form your own opinion of the condition, as they provide an accurate representation of the wear described.
SIZE
It corresponds approximately to a modern EU 54 (UK/US 44). A garment of this type is not as size-dependent as, for example, a tailored jacket, although it is worth noting that the shoulders are generously proportioned. It would also suit someone with relatively broad shoulders. This is not the result of an alteration for the original owner, but rather a fashionable design characteristic of the period. Please scroll down for detailed measurements.
