SWEDISH 1940S/1950S NAVY BLUE THREE PIECE DOUBLE BREASTED BESPOKE SUIT BY UNKNOWN MAKER. SIZE CA EU 50

DESCRIPTION

This suit carries no labels, but by studying it closely, one can still draw several conclusions. It is almost certainly of Swedish origin, and most likely bespoke, made sometime during the 1940s, though it could also date from the early 1950s. It is tailored from a navy blue wool fabric with a subtle twill weave.

The jacket is double-breasted, featuring two rows of buttons. It has horizontal front pockets with flaps, a breast pocket, and a buttonhole on each lapel. The back is straight with a single vent. Inside, the jacket is fully lined and has two internal pockets, one on each side.

The waistcoat is single-breasted, fastening with six buttons. It features four front pockets – two at chest height and two lower ones. On the back there is an interesting detail, or rather the absence of one: there is no size-adjusting buckle. This strongly suggests that the suit was custom made for an individual, as such waistcoats were not part of standard ready-to-wear tailoring. The waistcoat is partly lined with striped silk fabric.

The trousers feature a single pleat and vertical front pockets. They have a tunnel belt design, meaning the belt sits partially hidden within a channel along the waistband – a detail very typical of the 1940s. For those who prefer braces, buttons for them are found inside the waistband. A small coin pocket just below the waistband on the right-hand side is a somewhat unusual detail. The trouser hems are finished with turn-ups, and on the back there are two pockets, both with button closures.

In terms of condition, the overall impression is good. As is often the case with vintage garments, there are some minor imperfections visible upon close inspection. There are some discolourations in the linings of both the jacket and waistcoat, and a few in the trouser lining as well. However, none of this is visible when worn, and the overall impression remains positive.
Please study the photos carefully and form your own opinion regarding the condition.

SIZE

As this is a bespoke suit, it does not follow standard sizing.
The jacket measures between a modern EU 48 (UK/US 38) and EU 50 (UK/US 40) in chest width. Both the waistcoat and trousers are slightly larger, corresponding to approximately EU 52 (UK/US 42). Taking the possibility of minor alterations into account, we believe this suit would best fit someone around EU size 50 (UK/US 40).
Please scroll down for exact measurements and seam allowances.

JACKET

Chest (A) : 55 cm

Waist (B) : 52 cm 

Sleeves (C) : 69 cm

Shoulders (D) : 45cm

Total length (E) : 81 cm (77,5 cm measured from neck seam)

 WAISTCOAT

Chest (A) : 53 cm

Waist (B) : 49,5 cm

Shoulders (C) : 34 cm

Total length (D) : 53cm

TROUSERS

Waist (A) : 47 cm 

Length (B) : 107 cm 

Inseam (C) : 76 cm 

Cuff width (D) : 28,5 cm

Seam allowance trousers waist: 6 cm 

Seam allowance trousers length: 2,5 cm + 7 cm if the cuff is removed.