SWEDISH LATE 1800/EARLY 1900 BLACK THREE PIECE SINGLE BREASTED SUIT. SIZE CA EU 46-48

DESCRIPTION

This bespoke suit dates from around the turn of the 20th century (circa 1900) and is, considering its age, in truly outstanding condition. Unfortunately, it bears no labels, so the maker remains unknown, but all indications suggest it is of Swedish origin. It is made from a heavy black wool fabric typical of the period. In general, it features many period-specific details no longer seen in later suits – these are outlined below.

The jacket is single-breasted and fastens with four buttons, creating the characteristically high-buttoning front typical of the era. It's worth noting that when these jackets were worn closed, it was common to fasten only the top button; otherwise, they were worn open. This is not a jacket designed to create a nipped-in waist. It has horizontal front flap pockets and a breast pocket. A buttonhole is stitched into the left lapel. One notable period detail is the presence of subtly contrasting decorative seams that run along the lapel and pocket flaps. Higher up on the sleeves are two additional decorative seams that serve no functional purpose. The back is straight and unvented. Inside, the jacket is fully lined and features a single interior pocket on the right-hand side.

The waistcoat is single-breasted with a shawl collar and fastens with five buttons. It features two front pockets. A buckle at the back allows for size adjustment. The interior is lined with striped cotton fabric.

The trousers are highly representative of the style of the period. They are high-waisted with a flat front (i.e. no pleats). They feature vertical front pockets and brace buttons on the outer waistband. The fly is buttoned. At the rear, they have a fishtail back – a split waistband with an adjustable strap and buckle located just below the split.

All in all, the condition of this suit is remarkable for its venerable age. The only notable issues are some natural discolouration to the lining, and a few rust marks inside the waistcoat from old brace clips. None of this is visible when the suit is worn, and once on, it gives the impression of being in near-pristine condition. Please study the photographs carefully to form your own impression of its condition.

SIZE

When considered piece by piece, the sizing gives a slightly mixed impression. However, our assessment is that the suit overall will best fit someone who typically wears an EU 46 (UK/US 36) or EU 48 (UK/US 38). The chest measurement of the jacket corresponds to a modern EU 46 (UK/US 36), while the other pieces are slightly more generous. This reflects both the tailoring ideals and body proportions of the time. Both the waistcoat and the trousers can be easily adjusted via the built-in straps to better match the jacket’s size. Please scroll down for detailed measurements and seam allowances.

MEASUREMENTS

JACKET

Chest (A) : 52 cm

Waist (B) : 51 cm 

Sleeves (C) : 62,5 cm

Shoulders (D) : 44 cm

Total length (E) : 78 cm (74 cm measured from neck seam)

 WAISTCOAT

Chest (A) : 51,5 cm

Waist (B) : 48 cm (with adjusters fully open)

Shoulders (C) : 40 cm

Total length (D) : 53 cm

TROUSERS

Waist (A) : 46 cm (with adjusters fully open) 

Length (B) : 108 cm 

Inseam (C) : 75 cm 

Cuff width (D) : 21,5 cm

Seam allowance trousers waist: 6,5 cm 

Seam allowance trousers length: 2 cm