SWEDISH LATE 1800S/EARLY 1900 BLACK THREE PIECE SUIT BY A.B. AXEL KARLSON & CO. SIZE CA EU 46-48

DESCRIPTION

This bespoke suit is likely approaching 125 years of age and is, all things considered, in outstanding condition. It was tailored by A.B. Axel Karlson & Co in Linköping, southern Sweden. The suit is made from a heavy black wool fabric typical of the period. It features several period-specific details not commonly found in later suits, which are outlined below.

The jacket is single-breasted and fastens with four fabric-covered buttons, giving it the characteristically high front closure of the time. It's worth noting that these jackets were often worn fastened only at the top button, or left completely open. This is not a jacket intended to accentuate the waist. The jacket has horizontal flap pockets but no breast pocket. A buttonhole is stitched into the left lapel and stands out slightly due to a subtly contrasting thread. The cuffs also reflect the period style, with two fabric-covered buttons spaced wider apart than is typical today. There is also a decorative seam running partway up the sleeve. The back is straight and unvented. Inside, the jacket is fully lined and features a single interior pocket on the right side.

The waistcoat is single-breasted with a shawl collar and fastens with five fabric-covered buttons. It has three front pockets – one breast pocket on the left and two lower pockets. The back has an adjustable strap for size adjustment. The interior is lined with a fine checked cotton fabric.

The trousers reflect many of the stylistic norms of the era. They are high-waisted with a flat front (i.e. no pleats). They have vertical front pockets, and brace buttons are positioned along the outside of the waistband. The fly is buttoned. On the back, there is a single piped pocket on the right-hand side. The trousers also feature a fishtail back – a split waistband with an adjustable strap and buckle located just below the split.

Considering its age the overall condition of the suit is remarkable. However, a few minor issues should be noted. There is a small, barely visible repair on the trousers – this is absolutely unnoticeable when worn and requires close inspection to detect. There are also some light discolourations in the lining of the waistcoat, but none of these issues affect the overall impression when the suit is worn. Please study the photographs carefully and form your own opinion of the condition.

SIZE

In our estimation, this suit will best fit someone who typically wears an EU 48 Long (UK/US 38 Long), or possibly an EU 46 (UK/US 36 Long). The trousers will likely be somewhat loose in the waist but can be adjusted using the rear strap or taken in by a tailor. Please scroll down for detailed measurements and seam allowances.

JACKET

Chest (A) : 52 cm

Waist (B) : 53 cm 

Sleeves (C) : 68 cm

Shoulders (D) : 45,5 cm

Total length (E) : 78 cm (74 cm measured from neck seam)

 WAISTCOAT

Chest (A) : 53,5 cm

Waist (B) : 46 cm (with adjusters fully open)

Shoulders (C) : 34 cm

Total length (D) : 53 cm

TROUSERS

Waist (A) : 46 cm (with adjusters fully open) 

Length (B) : 114 cm 

Inseam (C) : 83 cm 

Cuff width (D) : 21 cm

Seam allowance trousers waist: 1cm

Seam allowance trousers length: 1,5 cm